Grapegrowing in the Alentejo
province
Agricultural Background
Cork tree plantations aside*, the Alentejo is currently going through
a significant change with regard to its agricultural vocation. With
intervention subsidies on cereals and livestock falling away to
make way for a more market driven economy, most Alentejano landowners
and farmers are seeking new ways to make their farms viable. Crops
such as vineyards, olives, tomatoes and to a lesser extent sugar
beet are currently the more popular options. With prices of the
latter two “annuals” being directly controlled by the
European Union, income from these crops is likely to continue falling
as market forces begin to take hold.
* (the Alentejo produces over 50% of the world cork crop)
With the popularity of Alentejano wines increasing (a clear recognition
of quality), both at home and abroad, numbers of new vineyard plantations
are likely to continue increasing over the next few years.
Viticulture in the Alentejo
The Alentejo’s success can be partly explained by its warm
and dry climate during the vine’s vegetative season, as well
as by local varietal and soil factors.
Annual average maximum temperature: 20.5 –
21ºc
Annual average rainfall:550 – 650 mm. (< one-third in the
vegetative season)
Soils are derived predominantly from granite or schist with
medium to low fertility.
In the mid-1880’s grape harvests in the Alentejo
totalled some 30 million Kgs. (30,000 tonnes). By the early 1900’s,
the Phylloxera bug had succeeded in killing off the total vine population
in the Alentejo. It was not before the 1950’s that vines (now
grafted) began to reappear in significant numbers. This coincided
with the appearance of the first wine co-operatives. By 1972, each
of the important sub-regions of the Alentejo could boast a co-operative
to make its wine. Although losing “share” rapidly to
the private wineries, they are currently responsible for over 50%
of all wines produced in the region (down from 90% in just a decade).

The Alentejo occupies only 6% of the total vineyard
area in Portugal with some 13,500 hectares planted. It nevertheless
occupies the highest national market share for “quality bottled
wines” (75cl. bottles with a cork stopper) in both the Horeca
sector (c. 30%) and in hypermarkets (c. 20%) [Nielsen, Jan 2000].

The Alentejo can be sub-divided into eight main wine-producing
areas. Of these Borba, Redondo and Reguengos together produce around
90% of the total.
Wine Label Regulations and the Controlling Authorities
Regulations apply to three official categories of wine quality
approved under national/EU regulations: DOC, VQPRD and IPR (in order
of diminishing “official” quality recognition). These
have limited relative importance. Since their introduction over
the last decade and a half, most of these categories have lost their
relative quality perception status due to abusive use by the co-operatives.
Beyond the restrictions on the use of varieties planted, little
importance need therefore be given to these. The controlling bodies
are ATEVA (viticulture) and CVRA (wine and marketing), both based
in Évora.
Locally Approved Varieties
Around 57% of all grapes grown in the Alentejo are red. This is
forecast to rise over the next 5 years, perhaps to as high as 70%.
The most planted red varieties include Trincadeira and Periquita
(56% of all red varieties). Around 58% of all white varieties are
either Roupeiro or Rabo de Ovelha.
Unique to Portugal is its large genetic bank of premium varieties
to be explored. This aspect holds considerable quality and commercial
potential, as markets procure “alternative” premium
varietal wines (an underlying quality-market trend).
The Alentejo has yet to realise its full viticultural potential.
For more information on viticulture in the Aljento and Portalegre
doc, visit www.vinhosdoalentejo.pt

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